Gear Purchases

That was quite detailed, but a picture is worth more than that paragraph. If you can't no worries. I just like to see the board.

I will in a moment

I'll try again latter. It won't upload to my gear porn, tried both on the PC and the phone, just not working for some reason

Okay. I have a nine hour shift today, so i'll come during lunch break to make my evaluations.

I'll try getting it up but going to bed soon as its like quarter past 11pm. If I cant upload it I'll just link it

It's been two weeks, mate. You still going to bed or did time stop!?

Okay, so I figured I might present a situation here. This is my pedalboard. I need a dual footswitch for that looper for ease of use. SO, I bought a Boss FS-6 and it's way too big. SO, here are my questions:

Can I use a different footswitch other than the recommended Boss footswitches for the Boss looper?

Could the Saturnworks amp switcher work as a footswitch for pedals?

What does "normally close/open" mean?

Please excuse me if these questions seem simple... i'm asking you guys now so I don't look like a fool in real life. Thanks, guys!

maybe, you need to look in the manual to the Boss and see if it uses a momentary or latching switch (probably momentary, but you still need to see if it needs a normally open or normally closed circuit), but there are probably smaller and cheaper ways to go.... is the jack stereo for 2 switches? If so, plugging a sinlge mono switch in it may be finicky with which functions it controls based on how the tip and sleeve of the footswitch make contact with the ring-tip-sleeve of the stereo jack

I would read the manual and build something, its literally just 2 switches of the right type, a box in the size you want and 1 stereo jack. 15 minutes build time, maybe less. But as you may not have a soldering iron or any knowhow talk to loopmaster. One of these will probably work perfectly http://www.loop-master.com/channel-utility-switchers-c-29.html?osCsid=qgj6e0juggi9bjah2kuqs63o37

Two momentary switches, normally closed (according to an individual who created a clone specifically for the RC-3), single stereo plug. I have a soldering iron and know how to use it, so that's all cleared up.

Now I just need to make a Boss FS-6 clone. Honestly, i'd love to just get a Loopmaster but I think I should get the experience. I'll pin that on my list porjects next to "Upgrade Hagstrom electronics" and "Find replacement humbuckers".

I recieved my Ultimate Blues Tone Capsule for the Blues Cube today and loving the mod. In a short round of playing it's certainly more well rounded and warm. The clean channel is not as pristine as before so there is the compromise, but dialing down the guitar volume a touch cleans it right up. There is a bit more compression as well so really pleased after a quick go. After dropping the Plimsoul in line it sounded good, but this pedal has a really narrow sweet spot so not necessarily my fave. Can't wait to get some more playing time in. ~m

yeah, build it... go to small bear electronics first, they may have a pre-drilled MXR sized box for it already powder-coated in a few colors, you will just need to populate it and solder... I would build the stereo cable myself too, but I am like that

I am currently waiting for a bag of caps, resistors and pots to mod my traynor a bit and am chomping at the bit to open her back up (having dissected her to see what version I have, not the version I thought, apparently the 66 schematic carried right into early 68 with only a change in output tubes from 7027a to EL34 making mine a lot like an early Orange PA 120 with 2 fewer power tubes, no solid state input components, and a few component differences -- notlike a bassier Hiwatt/soundcity without a cathode follower before the phase inverter - that explains the surprising lack of headroom... so I am 'oranging' those few components to the original Matamp Orange 50 watter component values other than the interesting bias scheme on the input triodes which I think makes the amp even nastier than a stock orange -- but I digress, I am just excited to get snipping and soldering caps! A little revoicing and she will be a great rock amp and so NOT a marshall, god I am sick of Marshalls after a decade of using them live... right now the traynor is too mch of a doom amp with excessive bass response in the preamp and a treble pot that eats high end sparkle even at 10, resistor values in the tonestack must go up and coupling cap values need to be at least halved globally and possibly tweaked further to suit my style... and if that rocks maybe I'll build another one from scratch in a single channel 100 watt platform if I can find the right old Hammond transformers)... so yeah, that's what I'm like.... DIY everything you can!

I have uploaded it now. I've been busy and genuenly couldn't get it to upload till I just put it on facebook then downloaded to the computer. Don't know what was going on with it. I still need to finsh changing my cables to either Sommer which are pretty much the same as what you use or to fender cables

Just started the list. So I found a schematic for what it should look like.

http://cdn.instructables.com/FPB/68UP/HQOAIF3Q/FPB68UPHQOAIF3Q.LARGE.jpg

So, this is the first time i'm seeing a schematic, but I think I have a good idea. One quick thing, though. I'd like to skip using a toggle switch and rather keep it normally closed. Is it possible to skip using those toggles? I'm kind of on the fence here, really it depends on whether those shorty toggles can fit side-by-side on the top of the pedal.

I'd give more details, but i'm just a bit busy, so here's the cart of materials i'm planning on getting:

Two X-Wing Momentary DPDT switches

Two SPDT Shorty toggles; (On-On) 0218B

One 1/4 in. Stereo Enclosed Jack

The only thing left is the enclosure and toggle switch covers. Not sure where to get those, or what they are.

Edit: Allparts okay? I know the local music shop sells a few parts from that company, so I might check that out first.

there's nothing complicated here, parts list looks right to me

to skip those toggles just wire the DPDTs using the lugs that are NC directly together and to the sleeve of your TRS jack completely ignoring the third terminal on the schematic... al those little toggles ae doing is selecting between those 2 sleeve lugs on the DPDT to change the switches state.... honestly you could get cheaper SPDT momentary switches for this project if you omit the toggles... save a few pennies and a lot of hassle checking that you soldered the right lugs if the thing doesn't work first shot.

EDIT: Personally I would go with the SPDT momentaries and buy the nicest switches available, they will probably be about the same price as cheaper DPDTs. You are going to stomp on these switches, cheap on the TRS jack since your pedalboard is going to be hardwires, but spend on nice stomps....

So, I now have one stereo 1/4" input jack from All-Parts in my hand. $4.50. I had no idea it would be that expensive...

Anyways, that leaves the two SPDT footswitches. One from Mammother Electronics and another from Small Bear Electronics which is an "x-wing" version. Not really sure what that means, though. Only thing i've heard is it makes for more space.

One more thing: As for enclosures, i'm taking a page from the schematic. I've found an A-size enclosure, which seems good considering I won't need to install those toggle switches.

you paid almost 5 bucks for a female jack?!

Unfortunately yes. Luckily, I haven't damaged the package so i'll just return it.

Then again, the X-wing footswitch is the exact same price. Since when was all this stuff so expensive?! Small Bear has one for $2, so I guess that's a bit better. I just need to know if the x-wing footswitches and enclosure would work out. If so, i'll just order immediately.

make a complete parts order thru small bear or mouser electronics, don't pussyfoot arund, but understand what you are buying! a quality momentary SPDT footswitch should be 2 to 4 dollars, a jack should be 1 or 2 even if its a good switchcraft (the only jacks I approveof in both male and female, though neutrik makes a solid male)

also, what youposted is NOT a schematic, its called a layout, a schematic will be harder to read bot will better explain the flow of electrons so you clearly know which toggle position on the DPDT will be open or closed... if you can read it.... for reference here's a legit SCHEMATIC (though for something a lot more complicated, but I have it handy.... if you can read it, the power supply, signal flow and ground scheme should be clear as day):

http://www.lynx.bc.ca/~jc/yvm-1.jpg

if you are the least bit confused about what to buy and how to wire it JUST BUY the boss box or the loopmaster NC box with 2 switches, don't be a tool who solders every terminal trying to figure it all out

if you don't yet have it pictured in your head and know who makes the most durable parts for the most stressfull applicatons of this simple logic circuit then quit and buy what you need... in the long run it'll be cheaper than fucking it all up and trying to correct things

if you don't GET IT don't fuck around.. with a modicum of respect, you are a young guy with the attention span of a gnat and a very questionable attention to detail... the reason to build stuff is NOT to save money, though it CAN be cheaper, if that's your only goal surf flEaBeay and ignore my suggestion you build the 2 button switch...

if your goals are mainly educational then proceed

if your goals are mainly educational then proceed

You hit the nail on the head, mate. If anything, I'm only saving $20 at the least, which is hardly much. I rarely get to solder and understand these kinds of parts. Plus, I need a preliminary for when I start doing bigger mods. How can I start those if I skipped out making something as simple as a two-button footswitch? I've got to start somewhere, and this is a good, small DIY project. Maybe in the future, I can try other and bigger projects!

Parts are on the way. In total, I have two momentary SPDT footswitches, one A-sized enclosure, and four feet of wire (two of which is red, the other black). All ordered bulk from Small Bear.

cool

hey, sorry I went all over-the-top saying nasty stuff I didn't actually mean in that previous post, dude... my son went to bed early that night and I had a couple beers with/after dinner and my tolerance is so low from not getting out on Fridays anymore that I totally got tipsy and mouthy

sorry about that, I apparently can't drink more than 1 IPA anymore without getting stupid... how embarassing